Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

most "pre-calibrated" systems use -24db, -18db, -12db (that magic 6db doubling #) -- so consider your listening approach - your sound level is important to ensuring your not deceived by "louder is better" effects + ear fatigue. so if you "calibrate" your system to -18db...

yeah, the 70hz dip is likely your ceiling. so, some deeper absorption overhead should help some or possible consider some tuned membranes. eq'ing the peaks down is a valid approach to the 50, 100, and 250hz.

so the edge of the baffle and the ceiling join - fairly sharp (from photo) and likely some edge diffraction there. in general, soffit assemblies like to have as flat as possible overall surface between the speakers - so the window inset depth and the corners may be playing there. if you had some pip...

about friggin' time! LOL (actually it was rumoured we'd never hear from you again once you got the soffit operating and the studio was now complete!)

looking good and glad the smaller problems are getting eliminated. any significant change in the audio?

very nice! one recommendation is to have them use wet finishing on the final layer as (in my experience) much less dust and smoother blending. the interim layers of course can be a rough blade (but no "blobs") finish.

yep, but i might directly attach the steel to the wall so it could also provide a connect point for isolation brackets.

the interior wall and frame should have the normal wall (ceiling) insulation which can transcend the "air gap" as the insulation is effectively the "air space" anyways. just avoid excessive compaction on the insulation to avoid coupling the exterior and interior walls. do nto use...

no, put the foam on the block/concrete. it's just part of the exterior boundary. as Jennifer noted: residential construction (with few exceptions) do not get a full 60db transmission loss esp below 125hz. there are many reasons for this including sound levels at those frequencies, framing and window...

using the foam on the block with the 1-58 to create the insulation / vapor barrier seems reasonable. then just treat that as your exterior bounday when consider your next layer of framing. then on the front portion of the basement have your double wall. on the bath room side i'd just extend the wall...

like any construction process - from the foundation & framing to the finish - each layer is a refinement over the previous one - in tolerances and surface finish. so as Jennifer noted - the less than perfect plywood (sealed up, of course :-) ) then the first layer of drywall - with some rough ta...

i would consider using 2 low speed fans one on intake and one on exhaust. filtering on intake (as a general rule i recommend using HRV/ERV product for energy, long term reliability and filtering vs diy fan assemblies). the use of the two fans will help balance the air flow and can also help reduce n...

very nice! the extra rigidity should help as it raises the resonant frequencies which are more easily damped when you layer in MLV and/or fill up the space with insulation.

most low noise registers also need low noise air movement - so if your air velocity out of the register is still "fast", then step one would be to reduce the speed - expansion of the air volume is one way to do it after reducing the fan propulsion at the air handler. in general, you need l...

the 2mm on the trim is my habit. i leave it off the floor and seal it with caulk before painting. it matters slightly if you have decoupled the walls from the floor (e.g. Kinetics Noise Wallmat etc).

#1 - they are in conduit, so most codes would see that a wholly separated. the main reason would be potential interference from the digital circuits or mistakenly plugging your internet gear into 230v... if you have proper grounding (star grounding etc) then the possible interference from the networ...